by Victor C. Krumm
The teenage olive ridley sea turtle was only 15 as she waited 500 yards offshore in the warm, tropical eastern Pacific ocean off Ostional Beach in a small country that, more than five centuries earlier, Christopher Columbus had discovered and named “Costa Rica”, the “rich coast.”
The moon was in its last quarter. The afternoon October rains had passed as she waited expectantly, unaware of the lunar effect bringing her near.
A dozen yards away, another olive ridley sea turtle joined her, followed by a dozen, then hundreds, thousands, and soon tens of thousands, all waiting quietly. For epochs the moon has silently passed its everlasting phases that affect the world’s tides-and today it was bringing her ashore this night, just as it had led her forebears to ancestral nesting beaches for more than one hundred million years.
Just a few months before, this marine turtle was living way out in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Indeed, in March an ocean freighter had passed her more than 3,000 miles from Costa Rica. On that same day, the tens of thousands now alongside her had been distributed across more than a million square kilometers. But, nature is always magical and this year was no exception.
Though food was plentiful far out in the Pacific, something stirred within her. She and hundreds of thousands like her felt the same compulsion to return to Costa Rica. They had to go back to where they had arrived.
Now, months after something inside spoke to her, she waited in the soft light just a few hundred meters from her destination. She had swum so very far but now the silent voice that had led her here told her to wait. She was ready. Over the many weeks and thousands of miles she had swum she had met many different male olive ridley sea turtles in the clear ocean waters and several had bred her because, like her, they too were being affected by something unseen, a primeval force. Whatever it was, it was so compelling that her kind had been returning to the same Costa Rica beach since before the first dinosaur.
The marine turtle had hatched in 1995 at the very small Ostional Beach. Only a few hundred meters in length it is now part of Costa Rica’s Ostional National Wildlife Refuge and maybe the most important olive ridley nesting site on earth. In fact, perhaps half a million females had come ashore to nest in massive “arribadas” , wave-after-wave of turtles, the year she had hatched.
For fifteen years, the mother of this olive ridley joined massive Ostional arribadas annually and she would have done so again except that she drowned in an illegal shrimping net just a few weeks ago. Thousands more perished by long line commercial fishermen. Even more died unnecessarily by eating plastic bags carelessly discarded. So many have been killed, the race is endangered.
Of course, the tens of thousands of olive ridleys just offshore know none of this. As we look out over the water in the pale moonlight, there are now so many that it almost seems one could walk on their backs for at least a mile. We look in awe at the sheer magnitude of God’s creation. They don’t know or comprehend that they were on this planet long before the first Tyrannosaurus Rex. They don’t know that we are waiting for them to come ashore so that when they lay their eggs on this tiny wildlife refuge, men, women, and children will legally dig up nests and take 1,000,000 eggs in return for protecting the rest of the clutches and preserving the species. They only know that this is where they are meant to be.
Then, though no one knows why, it happens. It is as though the same quiet voice that told them to come and provided unerring directions to a tiny sand beach thousands of miles away, the same silent command that demanded they wait offshore, now tells them it is time to come ashore. As quietly as they first appeared offshore, as silently as they gathered for days and weeks, their patience has been rewarded. They begin to come to the beach. A single olive ridley marine turtle is followed by a second, then another and another. Soon there are hundreds, thousands, tens of thousands—even more than that. All on a particular little beach. They come in increasing numbers all night. More arrive in the day. All day, day after day. It is the magnificent Ostional Arribada of Costa Rica. As timeless as the moon itself, it is the spectacular reaffirmation of life itself.
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The author writes about tropical Costa Rica in his beautiful website Costa Rica Vacations. Visit here to learn more about magnificent Costa Rica ecotourism Grab a totally unique version of this article from the Uber Article Directory